The controversy over the appropriation of traditional Kolhapuri chappals has intensified, with a public interest litigation (PIL) filed in the Bombay High Court against Italian luxury fashion house Prada.

The PIL, filed by intellectual property rights advocate Ganesh Hingmire, seeks monetary compensation for Indian artisans and demands a formal apology from the brand for allegedly copying the iconic design without proper acknowledgment or collaboration.

According to the petition, Prada’s leather flat sandals, showcased during a recent Milan fashion show and priced at nearly ₹1.2 lakh, bear a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals—footwear that has been granted Geographical Indication (GI) status since 2019. Hingmire alleged that Prada only admitted the collection was “inspired by Indian artisans” after facing significant backlash on social media, and the acknowledgment was made privately, without informing the GI Registry, the artisans, or the Indian public.

“The Kolhapuri chappal is a cultural symbol of Maharashtra with deep public sentiment. The acknowledgment made by Prada was neither formal nor public. There has been no apology, compensation, or co-branding initiative extended to the rightful artisans,” the PIL stated.

Hingmire’s petition also seeks a court-monitored collaboration between Prada and artisan bodies, advocating for capacity building, co-branding, and revenue-sharing mechanisms. “It is unrealistic to expect fragmented artisan groups to initiate legal action against powerful global brands. A judicial directive would set a precedent and safeguard Indian GI products from misappropriation,” Hingmire argued.

The PIL also references broader concerns over international fashion brands using Indian traditional craft techniques—such as brocade, block printing, bandhani, shararas, and sarees—without acknowledging the artisans. The issue gained further traction when Dior showcased a mukaish-embroidered coat, a Lucknowi craft, without crediting Indian artisans.

Senior lawyer Ameet Naik commented that while a strong case of GI infringement may be hard to establish, a passing off action could be explored. "Prada argues these are generic flat sandals and not misrepresentations. While not a watertight infringement, the brand could have avoided backlash by publicly acknowledging Indian inspiration."

The debate has also drawn responses from government officials. Karnataka Minister Priyank Kharge criticised the fashion label for selling Kolhapuri-style sandals at exorbitant prices while the original artisans, many of whom reside in regions like Athani, Nippani, Chikkodi, and Belagavi, remain unacknowledged.

“These artisans have been crafting chappals for generations. It's not just about credit—it’s about ensuring they receive fair prices, visibility, and sustainable livelihoods. Global fashion houses must showcase their names, not sideline them,” Kharge said.